lidnariq wrote:
In general, "rheostat" is used to mean a 2-terminal device that is specifically intended to limit the current that can flow it. Since that's a more specific term, and one of reduced utility, it's not really used any more ... which is why everyone calls for a potentiometer instead.
But you're right that they're mostly interchangeable.
I was confused at first since I was looking up pootentiometers and saw some people mention rheostats, I didn't know if they were different devices or not so I looked it up, and apparently they are.
From what I understand, a potentiometer is basically a rheostat with an extra fixed output (From what I read, a rheostat would have two connections would a potentiometer would have 3), that I would need to do some extra work to bridge to basically make it work as a rheostat instead.
I was just asking if there was any particular reason I was not aware of that one would have used a potentiometer instead of a rheostat because a rheostat would not have worked for whatever reason. I am not that knowledgeable about electronics I admit.
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There's genuinely no utility in re-enabling the CIC lock. There's exactly two games—one
US and extremely rare, one
European and not particularly common—that rely on a functioning CIC.
It's really more of a "nice to have just in extreme cases" thing, I was more concerned if it would cause any issues to do it. This is going to partially also be a learning experience for me (No, I am not just going to blindly solder onto my NES without a lot of practice on junk first) hence why I wanted to do it, I just like having the potential option.
Also, I heard some talk that you might need to disable it to get extended audio to work without a hd-def NES, but I don't know if that's true. Keep in mind that I won't be able to get my hands on a hi-Def NES for a while, but I can perform all the other mods with the tools I already have.
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The Hi-def NES completely ignores the NES CPU's original audio and resynthesizes it from scratch. Your NES CPU could be entirely missing pins 1 and 2 and you'd still hear audio via the HDMI output.
Ok, good to hear. So then basically no audio mod I do could run the risk of causing issues with the hi-def NES?
Come to think of it, I recall seeing some of the schematics recommend putting capacitors if you were going to do the mod to help prevent feedback from the RCA inputs.... would there be any point in adding diodes there too to prevent feedback? Or am I completely misunderstanding what diodes are for?
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Composite will not work as intended while the HDMI cable is plugged in. (The HDNES has to re-purpose it as a digital signal in order to work)
Looking back, I am starting to believe I mis-read that part earlier. I don't mind having to unplug the HDMI cable to get composite working, as long as composite will work fine with a Hd-NES installed (as long as I unplug the HDMI cable). Is that the case? I just have to unplug the HDMI cable from the back of the NES to get composite working again?
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Sockets are somewhat famous for having their contents shaken loose by only-slightly-rough handling. Nothing will be permanently damaged, but you might find yourself occasionally needing to open it again to reseat everything.
Seems this might have been another screw-up of mine by reading a different installation guide.
In reading this one:
https://www.game-tech.us/hi-def-nes-ins ... terposers/https://www.game-tech.us/hi-def-nes-ins ... -assembly/It seems that nothing gets permanently soldered in? From what I understand, you solder header pins in place of the CPU/PPU (which from what I understand, would be similar to a socket and are not a permanent connection?) and then a socket to the interposers of the Hd-DEF NES to socket the CPU and PPU in? From what I understand, this means that neither the interposers of the hi-Def NES that sit between the CPU/PPU, nor the CPU/PPU themselves get permanently soldered to anything can can be easily removed? Did I get it right this time or did I still screw up understanding how this works?