It is currently Thu Apr 27, 2017 2:13 am

All times are UTC - 7 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 95 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 2:07 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 10:36 am
Posts: 2804
Location: Tampere, Finland
lidnariq wrote:
You'll still need something to configure it to use the right baud rate, like HyperTerminal or something. There also seems to be a port of Minicom to windows, which will probably also work.

On Windows, the mode command should do the trick (http://www.microsoft.com/resources/docu ... x?mfr=true).

_________________
Download STREEMERZ for NES from fauxgame.com! — Some other stuff I've done: kkfos.aspekt.fi


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:46 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
I don't understand why I need a Terminal software and manual baud setting. There's is a serial output window in the Arduino IDE and I hope the FTDI board will use the right USB baud setting according to the code. Dead Microsoft link.

As I still had problems building the cart adapter (I had almost finished that, then using other, thinner wires from a floppy cable) but it was also hard to solder and wasn't very stable. No problems soldering the header pins to the Arduino.

But now I have ordered another console with a single cart game also, and so I will use that cart slot.

Is it possible to leave the cart slot inside the console and to solder wires in there? I probably have to disable at least one power lead to the CPU (how and where ?) Anything else? No batteries but the system would then be powered by the Arduino.
Or is there a better way to dump from the running CPU or elsewhere?
Here's the PCB of the console

http://wiki.portablegaming.de/Der_GameKing_von_innen

Or better desoldering the slot. But soldering would be much easier to the PCB.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 11:52 am 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
Gamekin wrote:
There's is a serial output window in the Arduino IDE and I hope the FTDI board will use the right USB baud setting according to the code.
I recently helped friend-of-a-friend with this: this described functionality did not work for him. This may well be why other Arduino-based dumping projects have all sucked it up and used 9600 baud.
I also wouldn't be surprised if the Arduino IDE set its baud rate somewhere else altogether.
Quote:
Is it possible to leave the cart slot inside the console and to solder wires in there? I probably have to disable at least one power lead to the CPU (how and where ?) Anything else? No batteries but the system would then be powered by the Arduino.
No, there is no way to disable the CPU. Even if you try to remove power from it, you'll now power it through its address and data lines, so that's simply not possible.
Quote:
Or is there a better way to dump from the running CPU or elsewhere?
You could get a (very expensive) massively parallel logic analyzer, and hook it up to all the data and address lines, and play through the game. But you wouldn't be able to dump any data that the game didn't use.
Quote:
Or better desoldering the slot.
You could try a heat gun, with some heat shielding to protect the other components. Or if you can find a (friend with a) desoldering station...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
Yes, I also wonder why most using 9600 baud. I know the the FTDI chip functions are unknown. But now with a real slot I don't have timing issues anymore.

There must be a way to use the slot still on the PCB. I don't care about the 2nd console. I could even cut it out and cut away all other PCB parts, but these soldering pins are probably much better than to solder wires manually to the slot pins. I don't know what is the pitch and if there's a board available with that.

I don't know exactly how the slot looks like at it's bottom. There are 4 rows (2x2 each side) with shorter and longer pins. Maybe there are even hooks or holes. Maybe it's possible to attach the wires better to those shorter and longer pins but I have to wait till it arrives.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 1:07 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
Gamekin wrote:
There must be a way to use the slot still on the PCB. I don't care about the 2nd console. I could even cut it out and cut away all other PCB parts, but these soldering pins are probably much better than to solder wires manually to the slot pins. I don't know what is the pitch and if there's a board available with that.
If you are willing to destroy one, then yes, cutting it out will work fine. Removing both epoxy blobs should also be effective.
You'll still get a nicer (and reuseable) result if you can find a desoldering iron or heat gun or possibly even a blowtorch.

Here's some reference material:
Desoldering using a plate full of rubbing alcohol
Desoldering using a heat gun


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 2:32 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
I almost did it with the new slot. Desoldering took 3 hours. I couldn't find my sold absorber. I don't have a heat gun and didn't want to try it the other way at open fire.

Almost everything attached, 4 wires missing, it was very stable but the wires are thick and heavy (what has pro and cons) but I didn't know how to stick that to my breadboard. They are also too short. Soldering to aluminium now worked.
And the slot construction would make it very difficult to later change the cartridge. So I desoldered again all wires and first have to built a more stable and upright construction.

I'm running out of long wires and maybe they shouldn't be much too long or connected multiple times. I will try to measure and bend the wires before soldering now or maybe use again a floppy disk cable.

Maybe female jumper wires would fit to the slot pins? But either pins or black tubing might be too thick for the neighboring pins. I also don't want to spend much more money (at least nothing expensive for stuff that might work, then wait and test again and pay again shipping costs).

I will try it somehow but it turns out more and more, that I maybe can't manage that. At least not on my own.
I also found some mistakes on my breadboard and also in the code.

Any more advice?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:48 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
I now have attached the slot to a wooden box.
Currently I'm building the wiring including one or 2 harness adapters which is a combination of a floppy disk cable and thicker wires to better plug them into the breadboard.
I doubt that this will work. The wires in the floppy cable are very thin and break easily. In total 34 long wires are needed and that's quite heavy, difficult to hold and solder. Maybe I would need another construction to lift and hold up the wires.

Probably this is my last try.

After that I have to search for someone with more skills who is willing to cooperate and where I can send my slot (and carts). I probably would need help writing an emulator later anyway.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 1:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
Gamekin wrote:
or maybe use again a floppy disk cable.
I've found that tinning the wires in such a cable has worked very well for me.
Quote:
Maybe female jumper wires would fit to the slot pins? But either pins or black tubing might be too thick for the neighboring pins.
Well, you know what the pin pitch is, so you should be able to calculate whether they'll fit, right?
AIUI, the Gameboy pitch is 1.5mm, and it looks like the connector for the gameking has alternating offset rows for both sides, so there should be 3mm between pins. I would think that anything bigger than 0.1"=2.54mm should be safe for ordinary female jumper wires...
although you probably should measure the dimensions of the pins where they came out and make sure the jumper wire connector will fit over it.
Gamekin wrote:
The wires in the floppy cable are very thin and break easily.
How much weight are you putting on them? They're not really meant to support things, just conduct electricity...
Quote:
Maybe I would need another construction to lift and hold up the wires.
But that's probably a reasonable workaround.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 12:33 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
Soldering some of the thin floppy wires worked much better than thought and better than on the previous slot as this slot was soldered to the PCB and isn't new. Although it's very fragile and I don't know if I can manage 34 wires. Maybe I need 2 floppy cables for the 4 rows.

The wiring construction including harness, thicker long wires and base is heavy and fragile. A floppy cable alone is heavy. Maybe I can't move that construction including the wooden box and have to carry the PC and monitor to where I'm soldering.
Another problem is that wire 1 is not near pin 1 on the breadboard but at pin 60. I turned it over and first considered the box upright and bending the wires over. Maybe I better would have started from the breadboard.

Maybe I build a 2 story or angled construction from the other side of the breadboard. Can you imagine 34 thicker wires next to each other? 3 or 4 times as wide as the floppy cable. The 60 pins on the breadboard are also aligned in one long row (so one complete board wide).

I don't know how thick a pin is and what the distance is. Some pins are also bent and have some solder on it. Maybe the jumper wires fit but don't know if they would keep sticking. The pins could also be too short.

In 1 or 2 days I will know if it all works. I hope the code is OK. I don't know if it all would be stable for more days.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
I give it up.

Look to the photos and you see why.

First the thin drilled wires often undrill and the tin hardly sticks. The tension and force of the other wires are too big. One soldered, 2 got loose. Either break off or get in contact with the tin of the neighboring pin or the iron.

Then I tried it with a 2nd harness adapter. No big problem soldering the copper wires to the thinner wires due to the different material. And the copper wires also can be soldered much easier to the slot pins.
Same problem with the tension forces. I also have problems with the tin temperature (often not fluid enough) and I would need a 3rd hand. No problems soldering the Arduino header pins.
The outer rows are quite easy as you can solder them to the side. But not with 4 rows. At some points I have less than 1 mm. I can't solder that with my equipment and skills.
I also have too many bridged connections and I doubt that everything is still on the right place.
I'm more and more destroying the slot. The 2nd console is also destroyed during desoldering. Soldering onto the PCB was much easier, but I couldn't cut it out as there was a glob chip on the rear side at the same place.

I need somebody who can do that for me. Either in my neighborhood or I have to send slot and games. Better than I would ruin my carts.


Attachments:
gamekingslot3.jpg
gamekingslot3.jpg [ 463.26 KiB | Viewed 1577 times ]
gamekingslot2.jpg
gamekingslot2.jpg [ 494.95 KiB | Viewed 1577 times ]
gameking-adapter.jpg
gameking-adapter.jpg [ 532.14 KiB | Viewed 1577 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 12:10 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
Gamekin wrote:
I need somebody who can do that for me. Either in my neighborhood or I have to send slot and games.
Do you know of any hackerspaces near you? I think they should have people able to help you. I'd offer to help, but it feels like there should be better options than sending something halfway around the world.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 1:58 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
Thanks very much for this link.

There are 2 or 3 in my region.
One needs to pay an annual membership.
Others seems to be universal meetings (and also have quite high fees). And one is more far away. But I will check them.
Probably there are much more people with soldering skills in my neighborhood.

And one meeting is obviously not enough. Multiple travelling costs are also expensive. So shipping would be better.
I won't ship all my games to someone I don't know at all to a different country.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 2:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
Gamekin wrote:
One needs to pay an annual membership.
Others seems to be universal meetings (and also have quite high fees). And one is more far away. But I will check them.
I bet you could reach out for help without having to pay a membership fee. Or at least, not having to pay it until they've established whether they can/will help you.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:18 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 27, 2013 3:33 am
Posts: 49
I finally have attached all wires. Even without soldering. I bought thinner ones and plugged them into the slot behind the cart.

No data are displayed on the PC. I tried 57600 and 9600 baud.
Probably the code is wrong.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Gameking
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 11:12 am
Posts: 5577
Location: Seattle
The arduino interface to upload code uses the same serial port, right? So you wouldn't be able to flash it if that part if the serial part wasn't connected correctly?

Looking back at your code, I'd arbitrarily guess you aren't successfully initializing your serial port (i.e. calling read_data_bus) before staring the dumping routine (loop) and so it's waiting forever at while (Serial.available() <=0){


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 95 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next

All times are UTC - 7 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group