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1. NO BLATANT PIRACY. This includes reproducing homebrew less than 10 years old, with the exception of free software.
2. No advertising your reproductions, with the exception of free software.
3. Be nice. See RFC 1855 if you aren't sure what this means.



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:29 am 
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I have no idea what you're doing but there is really NO need to modify the MAD-1 for just 2x27c160.
It cannot be that hard to follow a picture's schematic.

Are you even using the proper donor for Lufia? SHVC-1A3M-XX?

The picture you posted is just a different pinout between LoROM and HiROM for the MAD-1 and therefore absolutely uselsss for what you're doing.

I've done many type of repros with various ICs and all worked and I never touched the MAD-1 in any way unless I used 2x29F033 or more to allow ExHiROM mapping to save properly, but that's it.


EDIT: What pinout are you following? What are you doing exactly that it's not working?
Did you even bother trying the schematic I posted?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:31 pm 
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Ice Man wrote:
EDIT: What pinout are you following? What are you doing exactly that it's not working? Did you even bother trying the schematic I posted?


The pin-out you posted is the pin out I used initially. Yes I use the right donor. My tester board is a lo-rom 64k save game. I said a few post back " I have an original Lufia 2 which uses a 1A3M-30 pcb which is exactly the same as the donor I used."

You need to read what's under the picture. I understand the pictures are just the pin-outs , however the important stuff is written under it.

It says: pin 13 is connected to A21 when rom has 2MB in size (a20 when it is 1MB)
pin 12 is connected to next address line after 13 when mad is connected to 2 eproms.
pin 4 is NC for 2 eproms and instead pin 1 and 16 are used.

Therefore I rewired accordingly pin 13 to A21 instead of A20 which is what stock wiring is, and pin 12 then goes to a22.

I originally put in my tester board and soldered 1 and 16 to OE of each rom and blocked the connection to pin 4 mad and the game did not work by just doing that small rewiring of the OE pins.

I got nothing that way then I rewired mad pins 12 and 13 as the directions from that image says and the game works but resets.

Just to be clear we are talking about Lufia 2 not Lufia.

I did originally try mickey to Donald magical adventure 3 which is a hi rom game and I tested that on a hi rom donor and got nothing, but I am inclined to believe if I rewire the mad It will work.

EDIT: Is there a problem w/me stacking both eproms on top of each other and soldering the legs together all but pin 13 of each the OE outs and rewiring them appropriately?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:50 am 
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Location: Germany
Quote:
It says: pin 13 is connected to A21 when rom has 2MB in size (a20 when it is 1MB)
pin 12 is connected to next address line after 13 when mad is connected to 2 eproms.
pin 4 is NC for 2 eproms and instead pin 1 and 16 are used.


Err...what? This is not what my pinout said. You posted the MAD-1 image....

Anyway, if you followed the schematic I posted earlier (with 2x27c160) the game is going to work 100% without any other rewiring.
Lufia or Lufia 2, both are LoROM with 64kb SRAM. So it doesn't matter.

I won't bother anymore, you obviously should start to learn with simple games first using 27c801 or understand how it works. It can't be too hard to solder a 27c160 when you have a clear picture of how to do it.

EPROM D0-D7 -> SNES D0-D7
EPROM D15 -> SNES A0
EPROM A0 -> SNES A1
EPROM A1 -> SNES A2
...
EPROM A19 -> SNES A20
EPROM BYTE -> GND
EPROM /OE1 -> MAD-1 Pin 16
EPROM /OE2 -> MAD-1 Pin 1
EPROM /CE -> SNES /CE
EPROM VCC .> VCC
EPROM GND -> GND


Stacking EPROMs isn't a problem as long as the proper pins are connected or left unconnected.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 10:27 am 
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Ice Man wrote:
Quote:
I won't bother anymore, you obviously should start to learn with simple games first using 27c801 or understand how it works. It can't be too hard to solder a 27c160 when you have a clear picture of how to do it.


Why are you so condescending? I have made plenty of games thank you. I have made games for nes, snes, genesis, master system, and jaguar. I have made snes game on 27c801, 2 MB games on 27c801 split into a 2 rom donor and I have made at least 300 snes games using these m27c160 chips.

I have the wiring, I have for over a year now been making 2MB games using these chips. I made a video so you can again tell me my wiring is bad even though I prove a 2MB game on a M27c160 chip works. The wiring is NOT the problem. Lufia 2 stacked does not work w/just rewiring the OE pins.

https://youtu.be/LG37nJz1z0Y


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 12:08 pm 
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Location: Germany
The problem is not that they're stacked but rather they're not even soldered together. Connections are not given most of the time. Solder them together or find another way to connect them properly to the board.

And what is that adapter board with the ZIF socket?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Ice Man wrote:
The problem is not that they're stacked but rather they're not even soldered together. Connections are not given most of the time. Solder them together or find another way to connect them properly to the board.

And what is that adapter board with the ZIF socket?


It is an adapter board I designed and had made over a year ago. I really don't see why they need to be soldered as I tested every pin on the top and it has continuity to bottom. The whole purpose of the tester boards is to make sure the chips work before I hard solder them. Getting the solder off those chips to take them apart in order to reuse them will take forever.

I already had a set soldered together of a dif. games that did not work. I however did just solder them together and got the exact same results on both tester boards.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 2:10 pm 
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I did the same long time ago, not soldering them together but checking for continuity. While my multi meter told me there's connection the SNES didn't load the game until I soldered the stacked EPROMs together except /OE pins. It was only a suggestion.

Anyway, have you had success with other 2x27c160 on your adapter or even just 27c160?

I'm really out of ideas as 2x27c160 is a "simple" task stacking 2 working, successfully programmer EPROMs together but leaving /OE and connect ROM1 /OE to MAD-1 Pin 16 and ROM2 /OE to MAD-1 Pin 01.

Perhaps get a fresh SHVC-1A3M-XX board (36 pin MaskROM), desolder the original MaskROM, solder the 2x27c160 stacked via wire to the SNES MaskROM as shown in the schematic earlier. Tell me if that works.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 5:06 pm 
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I just got it working. In that picture his information is wrong at least for this game. It states for pin 12 in HIROM carts it is connected to cart pin 47. Well cart pin 47 is basically A21. Therefore I started trying things just for the hell of it.

I took pin 12 and put back to ground and that gave me the same results as connecting it to pin 22 so I knew the problem had to be pin 12 of the mad.

I then decided to wire it as if it was a HIROM and put both pin 12 and pin 13 (13 was already there) to A21 or cart pin 47 and it worked! It bypassed the start screen and went straight to the game.

Wish I understood what exactly was happening here rather than figuring out the way I did.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:32 pm 
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Unless you guys are looking to support this I suggest you stop sharing info with this guy.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/GamesNDecals/items

http://www.ebay.com/sch/icemanxp300/m.h ... 7675.l2562

It's sick and 100 percent against what this forum stands for.

(edited for clarity)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 6:14 pm 
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Location: NE Indiana, USA (NTSC)
If these accusations are true, report icemanxp300 to the ESA so that the game publishers can VeRO his @$$.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 6:43 pm 
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tepples wrote:
If these accusations are true, report icemanxp300 to the ESA so that the game publishers can VeRO his @$$.


Yes, they are 100 percent factual.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 9:34 am 
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Wow, thanks for the info. Going to watch out first who to help, I guess.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 6:58 pm 
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Ice Man wrote:
Wow, thanks for the info. Going to watch out first who to help, I guess.


Don't worry I made the same mistake. You take it for granted sometimes that your peers are like minded.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 9:33 pm 
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Nintendo2600 man what is your problem. Yes I openly admit that is me. I have never denied it.

First let me just say Nintendo2600 is Shawn on atariage and he does the exact same thing. Hypocrites kill me. When I first started to do this he got so mad at me because I wouldn't give him madden donors I had. He told me what I was doing was fine because I marked my games as reproduction, not that that matters.

I can link just as many threads on atariage about him making repros as well. When I first started he made a thread to cut me out saying he would sell any repro for $10 less than anybody else. This was after I refused to give him my donor carts I had stocked up on.

Most recently he is upset I purchased 200 jag carts fro $1 each plus shipping and I have them listed for $12.99 shipped on ebay.

I am clear on my intentions and what they were a year and a half ago when I was fed up with seeing fake little samsons sell on ebay for $200 and being sold for real. My intentions was to sell reproductions at a low cost and marked to try and stop the flooding of unmarked games. People are selling them all over at least this way they are marked and people know what they are buying.

I understand people disagree with this. I did too. I am a long time collector and have one of the biggest collections around but at the end of the day fakes killed this hobby and I decided it was not worth the hassles to try and collect the harder to find games.

Shawn is upset because the recent influx of Chinese knock-offs he has not been selling many games and even made a thread about how he is getting out of it.

At any rate I take full account for my actions and I do not deny them and make other people look bad for the same thing I do.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 9:46 pm 
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I am sorry if I misled anybody on this site. I guess I mis-understood "Blatant piracy" rules above. I seen people post threads about making games such as snow brothers and ducktales 2 and such. I assumed if it was over 10 years old it was fine. I as well did not advertise my games on here as per the rules. I do not do homebrews, I am not into taking profits from others hard work.


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