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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:39 am 
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Similar kit - different seller, about 20 dollars cheaper.

No, from what I've seen - first you have to find a seller in the US willing to ship to europe, not all do. Next you need to find a dirt cheap but still working unit. Then finally factor in the cost of shipping it. All in all I don't believe it's any cheaper.

Additionally, you've got to remember that you still need to extract the chips. Of course I have the tools and did this for my hi-def NES install - however it's all added risk that just doesn't make financial sense. Screw up the removal and kill a chip, then you've got to repeat the process all over again.

As there are so many of these units in the us you can literally pick up from any yard sale for peanuts, you'd think there would be some US sellers wanting to strip them for spares and parts.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 5:01 pm 
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mqarkcambie wrote:
As there are so many of these units in the us you can literally pick up from any yard sale for peanuts, you'd think there would be some US sellers wanting to strip them for spares and parts.


That was true in the past, but not so much anymore. Now it's rare to find one for less than $50. I think people tend to look at ebay listings to see what something is worth, or they've heard about some dork paying $10K for Stadium Events and think they're sitting on a goldmine.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 6:03 pm 
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mqarkcambie wrote:
Similar kit - different seller, about 20 dollars cheaper.

I'll look out for that, care to share the ebay seller or did you get a one off?

mqarkcambie wrote:
No, from what I've seen - first you have to find a seller in the US willing to ship to europe, not all do. Next you need to find a dirt cheap but still working unit. Then finally factor in the cost of shipping it. All in all I don't believe it's any cheaper.

I found a few "working console" auctions today on eBay that ended around $60usd shipped to uk (bad condition exterior though), however I suppose there is no guarantee you will get one that works and you can't exactly ship it back if it's bad!

mqarkcambie wrote:
Additionally, you've got to remember that you still need to extract the chips. Of course I have the tools and did this for my hi-def NES install - however it's all added risk that just doesn't make financial sense. Screw up the removal and kill a chip, then you've got to repeat the process all over again.

Depends on the modder! I had no problem doing this with my Hakko, but I see your point!

mqarkcambie wrote:
As there are so many of these units in the us you can literally pick up from any yard sale for peanuts, you'd think there would be some US sellers wanting to strip them for spares and parts.

I can only assume there isn't a market big enough for this to be worthwhile, I can't think of any other reason to want a NTSC console over here (to play region exclusive games maybe??)

In other news there was an update on the game tech website:
Quote:
PAL ppu rev issues:
RP2c07 and RP2c07-0 ppus have some glitches or noise in the picture. Adding a 100nf/.1uF capacitor
between pin 18 on the ppu and GND might be a temporary fix.
The 2c07A-0 rev ppu doesn’t seem to have any issues with the kit.
Kevtris is going to look in to this issue and may be able to fix it with a firmware upgrade.

:mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:59 pm 
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This is has nothing to do with the most recent posts, but a Japanese Famicom owner has managed to get the Hi-Def NES mod working with a non-AV Famicom : http://vaot.mydns.jp/fc/hi-def-RWFamicom.htm

Of course, if you want to do something crazy like this, you are on your own.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 3:11 am 
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Hi all,

I also tried to install Hi-Def NES. Got the CPU and PPU desoldered intact from two Nintendo's but I managed
to break partly both main boards. Few mobo's couplings was broken. What I am doing wrong here? Am I using too hot desolder temperature (340 celsius)?

I am giving up on this because don't want to break the third main board :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:02 am 
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Lesale wrote:
Hi all,

I also tried to install Hi-Def NES. Got the CPU and PPU desoldered intact from two Nintendo's but I managed
to break partly both main boards. Few mobo's couplings was broken. What I am doing wrong here? Am I using too hot desolder temperature (340 celsius)?

I am giving up on this because don't want to break the third main board :mrgreen:


You might be applying too much heat or for too long.

Ideally you should use a de-soldering iron, however the good ones are not cheap. I use a Hakko FR 300 and can cleanly remove a chip in about 5 minutes with it. I think game-tech did a video about what he uses which explains in more detail the process.

Where are you from btw? I'm looking to buy a NTSC PPU/CPU ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 12:04 am 
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inGGames wrote:
You might be applying too much heat or for too long.

Ideally you should use a de-soldering iron, however the good ones are not cheap. I use a Hakko FR 300 and can cleanly remove a chip in about 5 minutes with it. I think game-tech did a video about what he uses which explains in more detail the process.

Where are you from btw? I'm looking to buy a NTSC PPU/CPU ;)


Yes I might be desoldering too hot. My desolder gun station is some cheap ZD-915. That Hakko FR 300 would be great. I will check that video, thanks.

I am from Finland so most of the NES are PAL. Mine luckily had that working PAL PPU and originally that NES was from Spain.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 3:13 am 
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Lesale wrote:
Yes I might be desoldering too hot. My desolder gun station is some cheap ZD-915. That Hakko FR 300 would be great. I will check that video, thanks.


Does your desoldering iron have a vacuum pump on it? I tried to remove an IC for a different project a while ago using just an iron, wick and a solder sucker thing and found it way more difficult and messy to do. Also more time consuming!

Lesale wrote:
I am from Finland so most of the NES are PAL. Mine luckily had that working PAL PPU and originally that NES was from Spain.

I thought I would ask just incase it was NTSC :D What is broken then, traces on the main board? If it's not too bad and the chips are good, it could be repairable.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 4:43 am 
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inGGames wrote:
Does your desoldering iron have a vacuum pump on it? I tried to remove an IC for a different project a while ago using just an iron, wick and a solder sucker thing and found it way more difficult and messy to do. Also more time consuming!

I thought I would ask just incase it was NTSC :D What is broken then, traces on the main board? If it's not too bad and the chips are good, it could be repairable.


Yes I have a pump in that gun and that vacuum function actually works quite well.
This seems to be same device:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZD-915-Desolder ... 1935511733

And yes the main board have few traces broken where the CPU and PPU was soldered. I might have use too hot temperature because I only kept the gun
for like 2-3secs for each pin or I was too rough.

I will look at it and see if I could fix it.

Too bad I don't have any spare NTSC chips :|


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 5:48 am 
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Lesale wrote:
Yes I have a pump in that gun and that vacuum function actually works quite well.
This seems to be same device:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZD-915-Desolder ... 1935511733

And yes the main board have few traces broken where the CPU and PPU was soldered. I might have use too hot temperature because I only kept the gun
for like 2-3secs for each pin or I was too rough.

I will look at it and see if I could fix it.


Ah maybe it was the heat then. Sounds like some bodge wires should sort that out though! :)

Lesale wrote:
Too bad I don't have any spare NTSC chips :|

No worries... I was being optimistic! :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:55 am 
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Location: SE
Lesale wrote:
inGGames wrote:
Mine luckily had that working PAL PPU and originally that NES was from Spain.

Can you provide me with a serial number for that pal nes? Doesn't need to be precise, just roughly in the millions. I have a pal with the "bad" ppu but I'm trying to narrow down the search for a good one. :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:22 pm 
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So, I'm still a few days within the warranty for my Hi-Def NES upgraded Analogue Nt. It's a second run unit with composite video support--for which I only recently got the required video cable. I just found out the RCA audio jacks don't work. Analogue Support is trying to tell me Kevtris' HDMI upgrade isn't compatible with analog sound. I'm pretty sure that's BS, right?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:38 pm 
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Lesale wrote:
Hi all,

I also tried to install Hi-Def NES. Got the CPU and PPU desoldered intact from two Nintendo's but I managed
to break partly both main boards. Few mobo's couplings was broken. What I am doing wrong here? Am I using too hot desolder temperature (340 celsius)?

I am giving up on this because don't want to break the third main board :mrgreen:


If the CPU/PPU are still good, then it would be worthwhile to repair those boards.

That temperature is about right. Even with the best desoldering tool, it's easy to damage the pad by pressing the tool against it. Ideally what you'd do is add extra solder beforehand (improves heat transfer), then hold the desoldering tip against the pin and the solder without touching the pad at all. The other thing that damages the pad and trace is if you try to pry the pin out while there is still solder holding it in. If the hole is tight or the suction didn't remove every bit of solder, sometimes you do have to kind of snap it out. But in most cases the chip should fall right out.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Mikklos wrote:
Can you provide me with a serial number for that pal nes? Doesn't need to be precise, just roughly in the millions. I have a pal with the "bad" ppu but I'm trying to narrow down the search for a good one. :-)


Sure, I will check that serial number on this weekend and let you know.

Memblers wrote:
Even with the best desoldering tool, it's easy to damage the pad by pressing the tool against it. Ideally what you'd do is add extra solder beforehand (improves heat transfer), then hold the desoldering tip against the pin and the solder without touching the pad at all.


Thank you :) I think this has been exactly my problem because I did press the tool against the pad and then turned it a bit so I thought it would help.
And few traces broke so easily.

This is what happens when I wasn't exactly sure what I was doing :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:52 am 
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flamepanther wrote:
So, I'm still a few days within the warranty for my Hi-Def NES upgraded Analogue Nt. It's a second run unit with composite video support--for which I only recently got the required video cable. I just found out the RCA audio jacks don't work. Analogue Support is trying to tell me Kevtris' HDMI upgrade isn't compatible with analog sound. I'm pretty sure that's BS, right?


They've outright deleted my support ticket now. I guess I won't be getting any support (or any other future products) from them.

I've opened my NES plenty of times, but never the Nt. Does anyone know if their HDMI kit differs from the others in any way? Or can it be transplanted?


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