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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 11:12 pm
Posts: 20400
Location: NE Indiana, USA (NTSC)
Do you have an NTSC NES and an NTSC monitor set to underscan? If so, I'd like you to try running something known to put predictable graphics in the top overscan area, such as the overscan test of 240p Test Suite, so I can see how the top scanlines bend.


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:48 am
Posts: 11
I might have used overscan incorrectly here, I just meant the area hidden by the TV's bezel. My CRTs are in the storage and I don't have easy access to them. But I don't believe I have what you need anyways.


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 11:12 pm
Posts: 20400
Location: NE Indiana, USA (NTSC)
"Monitor set to underscan" means a CRT whose picture size has been set small enough that the bezel hides nothing.


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:48 am
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Thanks for the clarification. I definitely do not have any means of achieving what you are talking about. Hopefully another forum member can help you.


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:23 pm
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I captured a slow-motion video with my phone of 240p test suite on my unmodded toaster: https://youtu.be/ImlXalQyvSU


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 11:12 pm
Posts: 20400
Location: NE Indiana, USA (NTSC)
Thanks. See that wiggly line at the far left? The fact that it bends is evidence of the dropped dot. If it's that wiggly on hardware, then perhaps the skipped dot handling is three accurate five you.*

To be even more sure, I'd like to see another high-speed camera video in the "Overscan" test, with left set to 1 pixel and top set to 0 pixels.


*That's one more than "too accurate for you".


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2018 11:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:23 pm
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Here you go: https://youtu.be/NIMk_mij7Rg

This may not be difficult to correct for with Hi-Def NES, just shift those rows over every other frame, possibly as a configurable toggle in case there are scenarios where this doesn't happen. I'd like to see this fixed along with restoring the missing bottom row and handling emphasis bits more correctly. It's just up to the author as far as what he feels is worth his time.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 11:40 am
Posts: 5
I just finished installing my Hi-Def NES HDMI today and there's something odd and I want to make sure it's not just on mine.

When running it at 1080p, there's a distortion at the top of the screen. It's just basically a line or two at the very top flickering back and forth like crazy. It is not the random "speckles" that others mention.

I have tried this on 3 different television sets and two different HDMI cables and 23 different games and they all have it.

I am trying to figure out of anyone else here had this issue. I want to put my system back together but not until I'm sure it's not just me with the issue.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I just went back a few pages and it seems like this is a known issue. Does it go away with a firmware downgrade? Why does this happen with the HiDef NES but it doesn't with the NESRGB?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 8:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:41 am
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I installed my Hi-Def NES recently, and it works great for all except two games: Blaster Master and Super Mario Bros. 2.

These games start playing fine, but they soon start to have what I've dubbed 'vertical spasms,' which get more and more frequent, and only seem to affect tiles and background, not the player or enemies. They could possibly be related to the vertical scrolling issue that I've seen come up in other areas of the internet (I've watched Blaster Master scroll once, but only once). At this point I have no clue as to what is causing it, and why it only affects two games.

I followed the guide (almost) perfectly, now having tried anything I didn't do/could have done better (with the exclusion of the Lockout chip mod).

The caps have been replaced, the Q1 transistor was removed and outer holes bridged (though RF was corrupted last time I checked, AV does the same thing to the two games).

The original board I was going to mod didn't feel like letting go of the PPU on three pins right next to each other, and the board was charred in that location after all the attempts. So it was taken to someone who knows how to desolder better than I can, and he recommended using a different board, so I swapped the Power Modules from the boards, placing the re-capped module on the board in the modded NES. Since its a "module," i would assume that they are interchangeable with all the different design plans they have.

Speaking of PPU, could it be I have one that just doesn't like the mod?

If anyone wants a video for an in-depth look at the bug, I could make one.

If there is not technical explanation and it is the firmware, then I'm in trouble because I have no flashcart. I could get one, but I want to save that as a last resort.

EDIT: Doing the "last resort" of the troubleshooting page (unmodding the NES) resulted in Blaster Master working fine. I've ordered an Everdrive to 'update' the firmware, hopefully this will fix it.


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