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Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 5:29 am
by infiniteneslives
Hard to know what caps you have exactly. Perhaps they are/should be fine, a photo would prob help us help you.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 7:24 am
by Ice Man
I have used an original NES-SLROM board. No custom made baords.
This one, to be exact:

Desoldered the CIC, programmed the Attiny13A with the correct fuse settings, installed it as follows:
Pin 1 - NC
Pin 2 - CIC Hole 6 (Cart #71)
Pin 3 - NC
Pin 4 - CIC Hole 8 (GND)
Pin 5 - CIC Hole 1 (Cart #35)
Pin 6 - CIC Hole 2 (Cart #34)
Pin 7 - CIC Hole 7 (Cart #70)
Pin 8 - CIC Hole 16 (VCC)

P.S. 2 out of 3 are working, tested in that board as well. So I doubt it is capacitor related but maybe a faulty Attiny13A.
Either way, new Attiny13A are on their way and I will test them once I get them.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:43 am
by infiniteneslives
At a glance, your wiring is fine (as expected since some chips work). But I have no idea how long your wires are or other things that a photo would help portray. I did have similar issues where some chips worked and some didn't with some of Jim's Cool first attiny13 NES CIC builds. He found the bug and fixed it, never shared with me what the problem was. Not of much help, but perhaps your issue with krikzz implementation is related. First I've heard of it though, and there's quite a few people using his attiny13 NES CIC implementation AFAIK.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 7:49 am
by Ice Man
Found out my problem.

I set the fuse bits first instead of writing it with a GQ-4X resulting in ID FFFF making it useless to progam with a GQ-4X.
However, the TL866 recognized the Attiny13A and its ID. So i thought I could continue with the proper fuse settings.
While programming worked well the AVRCIC never worked in that said cart. Luckily I had another cart with a working AVRCIC. So I switched them out. The SLROM cart now works fine, but the other doesn't, obviously.

So I just programmed one using the TL866 ONLY. Reset the console a few times and hey, both carts work.

I also found out, if you program it with a GQ-4X. Set the fuse bits LAST. First program the HEX file.

Thanks for the help though.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 7:54 am
by infiniteneslives
Ahh yeah those tools are pretty terrible for programming microcontrollers. For AVRs, I would highly recommend any devices that allow you to use avrdude, allows you to be much more explicit with what's getting programmed exactly and when.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2019 10:31 am
by tepples
Inbound link
The description of the recently uploaded video "Secrets of the Nintendo CIC Chip - Early Cartridge Anti-Piracy" by Modern Vintage Gamer links to this topic.

Re: Reverse Engineering the CIC

Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:25 pm
by Lord Nightmare
At long last, the trick to entering the ROM dump/debug mode of the SM590 was figured out earlier today by Sean Riddle:

We now have electronic dumps of:
6113 non-A (which matched the dump done by neviksti using decap+stain back in 2006ish)

We still need dumps or redumps of:
6113A (is this just a dieshrink of 6113 with the same code?)
3195 PAL-x
3195A PAL-x (dieshrink of 3195?)
3196 PAL-y
3197 (korea)
3198 (famicombox cart CIC)
3199 (famicombox coin timer)

(PAL-x and PAL-y are technically PAL-B and PAL-A but I may have the order backwards so I wanted to note that)

The following are SM595 instead of SM590 but probably dump the same way
F411 (SNES NTSC, 1991 consoles?)
F411A (SNES NTSC, 1992 consoles?)
F411B (SNES NTSC, 1993 and later?)
F413A and B if they existed.