NES-001 cap replacement guide for the av power module

[game-tech.us]

So i've been making an install guide for the hi-def nes kit and one of the things i'm including is instructions for replacing the caps in the av/power module.
I've never had an issue with the rubicons on the main board so i'm not worried about them for now.
I also didn't keep track of what audio caps were 1uF caps vs 10uF caps as i'm just replacing them all with 10uF caps, it won't matter.
Here is what i've found so far, if you have other findings please share!
Mitsumi with nes-cpu-04

Mitsumi with nes-cpu-05,07,08,09,10,11 I never found a rev 06

Alps with nes-cpu-04,06,07 - I never found a rev 05

Alps with nes-cpu-07,08,09,10

Alps with nes-cpu-10,11

[3gengames]

Those solder joints are absolutely horrid. I hope that didn't get sent to someone and is a dead unit only for showing stuff.

[2600]

I also didn't keep track of what audio caps were 1uF caps vs 10uF caps as i'm just replacing them all with 10uF caps, it won't matter.

Why do you think substituting a cap won't matter for this circuit? Quick look at the schematic looks like they would act as a filter.

Also, it would of been really useful to keep track of the voltage rating for each cap. The diameter and height of the original caps would of been
useful as well since it is a tight fit.

[game-tech.us]

Those solder joints are absolutely horrid. I hope that didn't get sent to someone and is a dead unit only for showing stuff.

Well none of the caps are soldered in, only desoldered holes for ease of picture taking and demonstration.
Any solder joints you see are from the manufacturer.

[game-tech.us]

I also didn't keep track of what audio caps were 1uF caps vs 10uF caps as i'm just replacing them all with 10uF caps, it won't matter.

Why do you think substituting a cap won't matter for this circuit? Quick look at the schematic looks like they would act as a filter.

Also, it would of been really useful to keep track of the voltage rating for each cap. The diameter and height of the original caps would of been
useful as well since it is a tight fit.

I think the 2 audio caps are just to separate the signals between rf circuitry and line output, dc blockers?
Also i've seen both sizes in the same places on different versions of the modules. Mostly it's just easier to use one size if it's not going to hurt anything.
Good point about size, but I found a variety of diameters on the 100uFs and there's usually more than enough room for fatter caps inside, so as long as they are 16V or higher on the 7805 input and 6.3V or higher on the output you should be fine.
I'm betting height will restrict you from going too high on voltage.
The 10uF caps I went for 50v there, but i'm betting that's overkill and they still fit physically and didn't cost more.
Height needs to be 11mm or less on the 100uF and 10uF caps.

[3gengames]

Those solder joints are absolutely horrid. I hope that didn't get sent to someone and is a dead unit only for showing stuff.

Well none of the caps are soldered in, only desoldered holes for ease of picture taking and demonstration.
Any solder joints you see are from the manufacturer.

Weird, because on the right side, they literally change between every picture. You burn all the flux off, make cold solder joints, and all of that definitely isn't original. It's horrible. Plus, there's so much flux cooked on the PCB because of excess heat being used. Wow, what a disaster.

[game-tech.us]

Those solder joints are absolutely horrid. I hope that didn't get sent to someone and is a dead unit only for showing stuff.

Well none of the caps are soldered in, only desoldered holes for ease of picture taking and demonstration.
Any solder joints you see are from the manufacturer.

Weird, because on the right side, they literally change between every picture. You burn all the flux off, make cold solder joints, and all of that definitely isn't original. It's horrible. Plus, there's so much flux cooked on the PCB because of excess heat being used. Wow, what a disaster.

Do I need to be clearer? I only desolderd the caps, where the red circles are, I didn't solder or desolder anything else.
Maybe you are seeing the hand soldered joints from the manufacturer, like the audio video jack connections?

[2600]

I also didn't keep track of what audio caps were 1uF caps vs 10uF caps as i'm just replacing them all with 10uF caps, it won't matter.

Why do you think substituting a cap won't matter for this circuit? Quick look at the schematic looks like they would act as a filter.

Also, it would of been really useful to keep track of the voltage rating for each cap. The diameter and height of the original caps would of been
useful as well since it is a tight fit.

I think the 2 audio caps are just to separate the signals between rf circuitry and line output, dc blockers?
Also i've seen both sizes in the same places on different versions of the modules. Mostly it's just easier to use one size if it's not going to hurt anything.

That would change the frequency cutoff point on the High Pass Filter.

Good point about size, but I found a variety of diameters on the 100uFs and there's usually more than enough room for fatter caps inside, so as long as they are 16V or higher on the 7805 input and 6.3V or higher on the output you should be fine.

Did you pick that voltage or was that what the capacitors had labeled on them? Seems odd that Nintendo would pick that voltage level for those. Industry standard is to pick a capacitor voltage 2-2.5x the working voltage for Electrolytic caps, ie a 16Vdc cap is commonly used on a 5Vdc circuit.

[game-tech.us]

Did you pick that voltage or was that what the capacitors had labeled on them? Seems odd that Nintendo would pick that voltage level for those. Industry standard is to pick a capacitor voltage 2-2.5x the working voltage for Electrolytic caps, ie a 16Vdc cap is commonly used on a 5Vdc circuit.

Again it depends on the module, some had 6.3v on the 5v rail, some had 16v, some had 25v.
Even the top loader's 100uF cap on the 5v rail is only 6.3v.
Maybe it's a cost cutting scheme?

I'm not trying to argue i'm right about any of this though as i'm not an authority on electronics...

[BennVenn]

Those solder joints are absolutely horrid. I hope that didn't get sent to someone and is a dead unit only for showing stuff.

Well none of the caps are soldered in, only desoldered holes for ease of picture taking and demonstration.
Any solder joints you see are from the manufacturer.

Weird, because on the right side, they literally change between every picture. You burn all the flux off, make cold solder joints, and all of that definitely isn't original. It's horrible. Plus, there's so much flux cooked on the PCB because of excess heat being used. Wow, what a disaster.

You must be looking at different images to me...

Or your trolling...

[syboxez]

Here is my NES-CPU-11 with Alps module. This includes capacitor voltage and polarity, although my camera is complete crap.
Also showing off my l33t KolourPaint skills.

[CZroe]

Think a caption will fix this problem?
https://youtu.be/2eUk-f1W_Fo

Black and white video. I swapped the main board capacitors, trim capacitor, and clock generator from a known-good console with no effect. Would've swapped the PPU too but my desoldering iron crapped out.

[Joe]

Have you tried adjusting the trim cap, or just swapping it? It looks like a small adjustment will fix the problem.

[CZroe]

Have you tried adjusting the trim cap, or just swapping it? It looks like a small adjustment will fix the problem.

Yes. I both adjusted the old one and swapped with a known-good console. What I didn't do was service the RF module (didn't swap or replace capacitors). One of mine was Alps and the other Mitsumi (can't remember which).

BTW, my phone auto-corrected "cap job" to "caption" earlier. Oops.

[groove]

For those who completely remove the power module for recapping: when reattaching, are there any tips for getting good, evenly melted solder joints around those four big grounding tabs?