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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:59 pm 
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jims cool wrote:
ya own two of them.. well one.. took the connecter off one to build a CopyFamES!.. it's a NES with a Famicom slot and CopyNES.. :lol:

Pictures please....


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:27 am 
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Is anyone can post any picture of it please ?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:09 am 
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Well, if its too much trouble then don't worry about it.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:59 am 
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i've been busy i'll make a thread about it soon.. i've been planing on the FC expansion port and a few other things.. it's not that interesting atm.. haven't added a port switch so i can have games in both slots yet :)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:58 am 
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jims cool wrote:
i've been busy i'll make a thread about it soon.. i've been planing on the FC expansion port and a few other things.. it's not that interesting atm.. haven't added a port switch so i can have games in both slots yet :)


I understand. It would be nice to see if, and when, you get a chance.


Last edited by bootyhuntah on Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:12 am 
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Has anyone ever just installed a game cartridge CIC directly into their NES? Would you just need to lift the DATA IN/OUT pins on the NES Motherboard so that it would ignore any CIC in the inserted cartridge? Or would you need to lift any other pins? I'm just wondering if anyone has done this and made a schematic for going about defeating the lockout this way. And I suppose if the CIC reset signal still goes out to the cartridge then any multi-cart using that would still work.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 11:29 am 
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You could pretty easily stack the key on top of the lock ("stacked DIP") for all pins except pin 4 (LOCK/KEY). But I'm not clear that that's any easier…


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:40 pm 
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you could lift pin 1 and 2 on the lock then take a key CIC and bend pin 1, 2, 4, 5, 9 and 10 upward
stack the chips (solder pins not bet upward)
solder a wire from pin 1 (out) on the lock to pin 2 (in) on the key
solder a wire from pin 2 (in) on the lock to pin 1 (out) on the key
solder a wire from pin 4 (key/lock) on the key to pin 8 (gound) on the key
that's a lot of work though :lol:

if you replace the CIC you need to find a game with 319xA.. the timing of the other chips would stop lots of games from booting

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:21 am 
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lidnariq wrote:
Here's a photograph of it on my board.


Hello,

Is anyone can tell me please if it's a 1M ohms resistor (or another one) in this photograph?


Attachments:
cicremove2.jpg
cicremove2.jpg [ 19.6 KiB | Viewed 1789 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 12:12 pm 
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Yeah, that's the same 1M resistor that was there beforehand. I just moved one side.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 12:12 pm 
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OK, thx bro 8-)


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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 5:40 am 
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lidnariq wrote:
You're not a dummie :p

To reassure you, I've gone and tested the most recent one I posted on mine: it works just fine.

(Reposting: )
Attachment:
cicremove.png



I've tested this, and it worked perfectly......thx so lot :D


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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2017 9:52 am 
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This should be lidnariq's schematic with the extra resistor to allow CIC Reset-dependent cartridges like the PAL-only Super Mario Bros/Tetris/Nintendo World Cup and the official Nintendo World Championships 1990 cartridge to work properly :

Attachment:
cicremove.png
cicremove.png [ 12.19 KiB | Viewed 702 times ]

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