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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:06 am 
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mikejmoffitt wrote:
Typically I have found most HD CRTs (all maybe?) seem to in practice be like any other digital television, and just happen to have a CRT as the output device rather than an LCD / PDP / whatever, and they won't usually change scan rate for older devices but rather scale up like any modern set.


This is what I assumed. Which if true means they should be avoided just like LCDs and other digital displays for retro use. If you have a digital display you may as well just use an emulator rather than deal with terrible video quality.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 4:00 pm 
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MottZilla wrote:
mikejmoffitt wrote:
Typically I have found most HD CRTs (all maybe?) seem to in practice be like any other digital television, and just happen to have a CRT as the output device rather than an LCD / PDP / whatever, and they won't usually change scan rate for older devices but rather scale up like any modern set.


This is what I assumed. Which if true means they should be avoided just like LCDs and other digital displays for retro use. If you have a digital display you may as well just use an emulator rather than deal with terrible video quality.


Exactly.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:39 am 
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Has anyone received an NESRGB board yet? I ordered one when it was available and really have no idea what to expect for shipping times.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:00 am 
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I just got an e-mail from Tim, telling me that he has posted my two kits. Expected arrival: 1-2 weeks.

Wohoo! :D


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:00 am 
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yxkalle wrote:
I just got an e-mail from Tim, telling me that he has posted my two kits. Expected arrival: 1-2 weeks.

Wohoo! :D

I just did as well. I am excited!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 4:28 pm 
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As the NESRGB board is not really designed to fit inside a Twin Famicom I manufactured this displacement cable to move the PPU a bit. I used an old IDE cable and two IDC-DIP flat cable connectors. I have yet to receive my boards but it seems to work fine with just the PPU in place (maybe a tad bit more jailbars).
Attachment:
20131106_235951.jpg
20131106_235951.jpg [ 400.27 KiB | Viewed 3712 times ]

Isn't it a thing of beauty? ;)
Attachment:
20131107_000333.jpg
20131107_000333.jpg [ 242.92 KiB | Viewed 3712 times ]


EDIT:
I had to shorten this cable quite a bit, for various reasons. New pictures when I receive my NESRGB boards. ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Some av famicom pics:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

The audio circuit got changed around a little, adjusted the gain and filtering so it can be fed straight into famicom pin 45.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:12 pm 
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Nice Drakon! But why do you use hot glue on that cable (by the contact)? Wouldn't it be better to use heat shrink tubing instead?
You can buy it dirty cheap at: http://dx.com/p/1m-black-heat-shrink-tubing-five-size-pack-0-8-1-5-2-5-3-5-4-5mm-23450


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:46 pm 
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He glues everything, don't even say anything, that's very conservative from his norm. :P


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:56 pm 
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I just inspected how Nintendulator generates it's RGB palette (this is the one used in NESRGB when you choose the "composite" palette) and it worries me a bit that many colors fall outside of the RGB matrix (i.e. clipping).

Here's the list, clipped values in red:

    00 = RGB(102, 102, 102)
    01 = RGB(-24, 43, 155)
    02 = RGB(17, 15, 193)
    03 = RGB(64, -8, 188)
    04 = RGB(103, -19, 143)
    05 = RGB(124, -15, 69)
    06 = RGB(121, 2, -14)
    07 = RGB(96, 28, -83)
    08 = RGB(55, 57, -121)
    09 = RGB(8, 80, -117)
    0A = RGB(-31, 91, -71)
    0B = RGB(-52, 87, 3)
    0C = RGB(-50, 70, 85)
    0D = RGB(-30, -30, -30)
    0E = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    0F = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    10 = RGB(174, 174, 174)
    11 = RGB(7, 97, 245)
    12 = RGB(62, 59, 295)
    13 = RGB(124, 29, 290)
    14 = RGB(176, 14, 230)
    15 = RGB(204, 19, 131)
    16 = RGB(201, 42, 21)
    17 = RGB(167, 77, -71)
    18 = RGB(112, 115, -121)
    19 = RGB(50, 145, -115)
    1A = RGB(-2, 160, -55)
    1B = RGB(-30, 155, 43)
    1C = RGB(-26, 132, 153)
    1D = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    1E = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    1F = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    20 = RGB(256, 256, 256)
    21 = RGB(86, 178, 328)
    22 = RGB(142, 139, 379)
    23 = RGB(205, 108, 373)
    24 = RGB(258, 93, 312)
    25 = RGB(286, 98, 212)
    26 = RGB(283, 122, 101)
    27 = RGB(249, 157, 7)
    28 = RGB(193, 196, -44)
    29 = RGB(130, 226, -38)
    2A = RGB(77, 241, 23)
    2B = RGB(49, 237, 122)
    2C = RGB(52, 213, 234)
    2D = RGB(79, 79, 79)
    2E = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    2F = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    30 = RGB(256, 256, 256)
    31 = RGB(186, 224, 286)
    32 = RGB(209, 208, 307)
    33 = RGB(235, 195, 304)
    34 = RGB(257, 189, 279)
    35 = RGB(268, 191, 238)
    36 = RGB(267, 201, 192)
    37 = RGB(253, 215, 154)
    38 = RGB(230, 231, 133)
    39 = RGB(204, 244, 135)
    3A = RGB(183, 250, 160)
    3B = RGB(171, 248, 201)
    3C = RGB(172, 238, 247)
    3D = RGB(183, 183, 183)
    3E = RGB(0, 0, 0)
    3F = RGB(0, 0, 0)

And now when I think of it, isn't black supposed to be at RGB(16, 16, 16) and white at RGB(235, 235, 235) on a TV?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:05 pm 
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hyarion wrote:
Nice Drakon! But why do you use hot glue on that cable (by the contact)? Wouldn't it be better to use heat shrink tubing instead?
You can buy it dirty cheap at: http://dx.com/p/1m-black-heat-shrink-tubing-five-size-pack-0-8-1-5-2-5-3-5-4-5mm-23450



Because why buy this

Image

and do it right...

When you can buy this and add some "flare" to your work!

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:25 am 
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yxkalle wrote:
And now when I think of it, isn't black supposed to be at RGB(16, 16, 16) and white at RGB(235, 235, 235) on a TV?


I don't see why we wouldn't want to map black to 0,0,0 and white to 255,255,255, though.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:32 am 
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You know, I could have easily gone down the path of using lots of hot melt glue in my electronic projects. That the stuff turns into spider webs and gets caught up in everything is probably the biggest reason I avoid it most of the time. I can't stand those little strings stretching out. I think the high-temperature glue sticks might be better, but it's not common or cheap.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 10:50 am 
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blargg wrote:
You know, I could have easily gone down the path of using lots of hot melt glue in my electronic projects. That the stuff turns into spider webs and gets caught up in everything is probably the biggest reason I avoid it most of the time. I can't stand those little strings stretching out. I think the high-temperature glue sticks might be better, but it's not common or cheap.

Unfortunately for mounting the NESRGB in an original Famicom using glue is mostly unavoidable. I've gotten pretty good at not making glue webs, though.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:00 pm 
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mikejmoffitt wrote:
yxkalle wrote:
And now when I think of it, isn't black supposed to be at RGB(16, 16, 16) and white at RGB(235, 235, 235) on a TV?


I don't see why we wouldn't want to map black to 0,0,0 and white to 255,255,255, though.

Because a well calibrated TV can't show colors darker than #101010 or lighter than #EBEBEB so you won't see any difference between red, green and blue or red, green and blue. There's other reasons too.

Modern TV's and computer monitors on the other hand can use the whole range and often have a higher bit depth too. (i.e. if you can't tell the difference of colors in the words above your screen is not correctly calibrated (or maybe you're color blind, sorry about that).


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