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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 6:11 pm 
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I know this is a weird question but here goes...

Has anyone here ever sourced a good fit for the power and reset switches in the original front loader?

I refurbish front loaders for fun and I would prefer to replace the actual switch on the Power/Reset PCB instead of resorting to front loader cannibalism.

After spending three hours on DigiKey and Mouser with my Digital Caliper and an original PCB, the closest I could find was this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P227EE1CXC/EG1026-ND/271715

The specs are too far off for my liking.

Does anyone happen to have part numbers and brands for the original switches?

Thanks in advance for reading.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 12:47 am 
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I don't know the specs of what's needed, but I do have an entire extra power/reset button assembly that came out of a completely trashed NES.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:57 am 
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Thanks for your response!

I can go on eBay and find extra power switch boards for around $10 but this seems expensive. It's usually cheaper to buy individual components. The actual switch could be had for around $2-3 dollars from stores like Mouser or DigiKey, judging by current prices for similar models.

What I'm trying to achieve is being able to restore a front loader using modern replacement components wherever possible. I know I'm not going to be able to source everything, but I want to try. I don't like wasting original hardware if I can help it. Swapping out a whole board for one switch feels wasteful to me.

If no one has been able to source a replacement, then it could be that replacement switches simply aren't manufactured any more. I thought I would ask since there are many NES hardware gurus here.

Thanks again. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:42 pm 
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So after searching Newark and Chip1Stop (a Japanese component supplier) with no success, I decided on an experiment in disassembly of the power and reset switches. I had a switch board from an NES that had noticeable salt corrosion and the power and reset switches had no continuity when closed.

There are very thin tabs on these switches that can be unlatched with some gentle coercion, yielding access to the switch contacts.
Attachment:
Switches_Highlighted.jpg
Switches_Highlighted.jpg [ 871.91 KiB | Viewed 821 times ]


After desoldering the switches, I used a small screwdriver to gently pry latches free. Once the contacts were exposed, I used a little Brasso on a cotton swab and cleaned the contacts to a shine. They were quite nasty but the build-up came off easily with the Brasso. I used 91% alcohol in a spray bottle to rinse the contacts and switches clean.

Caution: Make sure you remove the buttons from the switch before spraying with alcohol. ISO will make the ink/paint used for the lettering run... don't ask how I know. :roll:

I reassembled the switches and checked continuity on each switch. I was getting clean and consistent beeps when closed. I soldered the switches back in place, connected the harness to my main NES, and it fired up.

I know this is not revolutionary, but it's nice to know that you can resurrect these switches in a pinch. :beer:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:06 am 
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zansatsu0 wrote:
I know this is a weird question but here goes...

Has anyone here ever sourced a good fit for the power and reset switches in the original front loader?

I refurbish front loaders for fun and I would prefer to replace the actual switch on the Power/Reset PCB instead of resorting to front loader cannibalism.

After spending three hours on DigiKey and Mouser with my Digital Caliper and an original PCB, the closest I could find was this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/P227EE1CXC/EG1026-ND/271715

The specs are too far off for my liking.

Does anyone happen to have part numbers and brands for the original switches?

Thanks in advance for reading.


Even though I've never found an exact replacement, I was able to locally find a "close fit". I use it on my test NES console. The button is harder to push, and the switch is longer in length (sticks out past the back), but it works.
Image

If you're curious, I can probably get a bunch for 50 cents ea I think.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:17 am 
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poppj wrote:
If you're curious, I can probably get a bunch for 50 cents ea I think.


Thanks so much for the response!

Do you have a brand and a part number? At the very least I could cross reference it.

Did you have to modify the PCB at all to get it to fit?

Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:15 am 
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zansatsu0 wrote:
poppj wrote:
If you're curious, I can probably get a bunch for 50 cents ea I think.


Thanks so much for the response!

Do you have a brand and a part number? At the very least I could cross reference it.

Did you have to modify the PCB at all to get it to fit?

Thanks again!


I'll see if I can get you a brand/part number later this evening. I did not have to modify the PCB or anything on the NES whatsoever. If anything, I may have cut some extra tabs off the bottom of the switch, and really I should cut the ones off the top as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:58 am 
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zansatsu0, in your case, sourcing a new part that is the wrong part and jury-rigging it doesn't seem like a more sane solution than accepting a spare pulled from a broken NES.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:04 pm 
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poppj wrote:
I'll see if I can get you a brand/part number later this evening. I did not have to modify the PCB or anything on the NES whatsoever. If anything, I may have cut some extra tabs off the bottom of the switch, and really I should cut the ones off the top as well.


Thank you very much for that. I appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:32 pm 
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mikejmoffitt wrote:
zansatsu0, in your case, sourcing a new part that is the wrong part and jury-rigging it doesn't seem like a more sane solution than accepting a spare pulled from a broken NES.


I'm not against using an original switch. I will use an original if it's on hand and order where necessary. It's just that there is an ever-dwindling supply and it's interesting to see what's out there. It doesn't hurt to have knowledge on a switch with functional specs.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 4:28 pm 
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zansatsu0 wrote:
poppj wrote:
I'll see if I can get you a brand/part number later this evening. I did not have to modify the PCB or anything on the NES whatsoever. If anything, I may have cut some extra tabs off the bottom of the switch, and really I should cut the ones off the top as well.


Thank you very much for that. I appreciate it.



Manufacturer is Schado... I can't find a part number anywhere, but it might be on the bottom side. One thing I verified - the hot glue on top is a jumper i created for the switch to function properly. I could make it cleaner by running it underneath. If you're still interested, I can stop by the parts shop in the morning and pick up a few to get more info.....


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:30 pm 
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poppj wrote:
Manufacturer is Schado... I can stop by the parts shop in the morning and pick up a few to get more info.....


That's not necessary. I started Googling ITT Schadow and I've found some interesting matches at online shops I hadn't seen before that might work. I would have to purchase some samples and experiment. You definitely kicked started my search again. :)

Besides, after reviewing your pic, your local parts shop probably has "new old stock". That switch reads "Made in W. Germany" which hasn't existed since 1990.

If you do happen to go by the store, you can always take a pic for free showing the part number, but I can't in good conscience have you purchase switches you won't use.

Thanks again for your responses!



EDIT: Corrected the quote to make my post make sense. :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 6:48 am 
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zansatsu0 wrote:
poppj wrote:
Manufacturer is Schado... I can stop by the parts shop in the morning and pick up a few to get more info.....


That's not necessary. I started Googling ITT Schadow and I've found some interesting matches at online shops I hadn't seen before that might work. I would have to purchase some samples and experiment. You definitely kicked started my search again. :)

Besides, after reviewing your pic, your local parts shop probably has "new old stock". That switch reads "Made in W. Germany" which hasn't existed since 1990.

If you do happen to go by the store, you can always take a pic for free showing the part number, but I can't in good conscience have you purchase switches you won't use.

Thanks again for your responses!



EDIT: Corrected the quote to make my post make sense. :roll:



Glad I could help, part number is ITT Schadow NE-15, found some here:

https://reverb.com/ca/item/3677800-schadow-typ-ne15-dpdt-power-switch-vintage-nos

Of course, that link shows them with a button on the front, which can be removed. I found these a few years ago when I had a bad/corroded power switch and didn't want to buy the whole assembly online. The hardest part seems to be finding a switch that has pins that line-up with the solder holes on the PCB. My PCB can work side by side, or in a straight line. Most switches have the pins too far apart, but the 2 inner pins on this switch fit perfect.

Yes, they are new old stock. I believe if you remove the little metal pin on top, it becomes a momentary switch and can be used as a reset button.


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