No, you always have to turn it off before you mess with the address.
What I meant is that there's not enough time to turn it off and back on in an hblank, so rendering has to be visibly off if you're updating more than one palette entry (and really even for Indiana Jones' case of just the background colour, rendering is still off for a visible part of the scanline, it's just cleverly concealed).
So, by "rendering off" I meant for multiple scanlines while you do your palette changes.
Palette swap within the game region?
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Re: Palette swap within the game region?
Also disabling rendering causes OAM corruption if done at the wrong time.
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