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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:56 pm 
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Location: Estonia, Rapla city (50 and 60Hz compatible :P)
To switch single chip machine between 50 and 60Hz you must also change the master clock. 21.47727MHz for 60Hz and 17.734476MHz for 50Hz.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:49 am 
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This actually seems to have 3 crystals in it. As I said the snes portion won't work in this FC twin anyway but I have no way to even measure these crystals. They're labelled RJH21 4772A and one says RJH24 576A

https://s14.postimg.org/7ejxzfrsh/20180128_094527.jpg


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:50 am 
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I figured out it's the right crystal but through av there's no red colour. I probably just need to use RGB but that's ok. I lifted the pin for the region mod also but it doesn't seem to do anything u less maybe it's only for certain games.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:00 am 
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Ok so sorry for all the posts but I have everything ready now. I have resistors and a dpdt switch along with a second switch for the region mod. There's just 2 more things I need to know when somebody gets a chance.

1. Is it normal for the snes to still work while pin 4 is not connected and should I still connect it to a switch that goes to 5v and gnd?

2. Do I need to lift pin 9 on the RGB chip also to fix the colour in composite?

I don't mind the second one too much as long as RGB works but just wondering does it need to be done.

Thanks for all the help so far also. I would have been completely lost otherwise.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:23 am 
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Location: Estonia, Rapla city (50 and 60Hz compatible :P)
All input pins should be tied somewhere rather than left floating, it will remove chance of mysterious mode toggilng Happening later. You can explicitly tie it to GND or VCC, or just one of them with other handled by a pull-up or pull-down resistor, allowing to have one less wire go to the switch.

Switching the pin 9 on the encoder is advisable, there will be TVs that do not like PAL60 or NTSC50. This will not affect RGB.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:55 am 
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TmEE wrote:
All input pins should be tied somewhere rather than left floating, it will remove chance of mysterious mode toggilng Happening later. You can explicitly tie it to GND or VCC, or just one of them with other handled by a pull-up or pull-down resistor, allowing to have one less wire go to the switch.

Switching the pin 9 on the encoder is advisable, there will be TVs that do not like PAL60 or NTSC50. This will not affect RGB.


If I do that like just link it to GND for example does it still switch regions when I switch between 50 and 60hz? This one chip model is so different that it's confusing me.

Pin 9 to the middle of a switch going to 5v and gnd also?

Sorry for all these questions I just want to at least do it right since I already went this far.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 4:40 pm 
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Location: Estonia, Rapla city (50 and 60Hz compatible :P)
Switch is what ties the signal to either VCC or GND, a signal should not be left floating (i.e not connected anywhere). You can use a pull-up resistor on the signal line to provide a "default state", which also allows you to use only GND on switch side, no need for an additional VCC wire. Signal will go to middle pin of a switch, outer pins connect to GND or VCC, or just GND on one side when pull-up resistor is used. Use whichever is most convenient.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 6:23 pm 
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I forgot to lift pin 9 but after doing all the soldering and all the hassle I had I think I'll just leave it at least for now anyway. Thanks for the help. I probably should have just done the switchless mod but whatever it works anyway. I'll be using RGB because it looks way better.

My new 4K tv doesn't have scart but in my opinion you have to play these older consoles on a crt or it's just not the same. Input lag is one thing but it usually looks horrible too and just doesn't feel the same. It's better to use a CRT for them :)


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