Connect AY-3-8910 sound chip to FME-7 board

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Jeroen
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Post by Jeroen » Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:28 am

loopy's site...go to loopy's forum acount and click the website thingie.

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MottZilla
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Post by MottZilla » Sun Jul 25, 2010 1:17 pm

I haven't tested it yet, but in the ReadMe it still only mentions FDS, VRC6 and Namco 106 as having expansion audio support. No specific mention of Sunsoft5B. So it if does support it, that's probably why I assumed it didn't since it wasn't mentioned in the text file.

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MottZilla
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Post by MottZilla » Wed Aug 04, 2010 5:41 pm

I finally got around to checking and Gimmick does have the extra sound. Though it seems obvious that i need to replace my 100k resistor with a 47k or whatever the proper value was later determined as the extra sound channels are quieter than they should be.

socram8888

Post by socram8888 » Sun Jan 02, 2011 3:35 pm

Scucci wrote:Sorry for the thread neco, but I just wanted to thank everyone involved with this (SDM, Kevtris) for the inspiration and Kevtris especially for the help.

Image

Uses the "PowerPak" resistor mod (47Kohm between 3 and 9 on the expansion port).

Works like a champ.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuC8pMwvRGk

Shrunk it down to an AY-3-8912 instead of an 8910 so I could fit it in a cartridge easily.
Does you have the schematic of that new version? I removed today a AY-3-8912 from a old non-working Spectrum +2A and I want to use it for something

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jpx72
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Post by jpx72 » Wed Jan 12, 2011 5:20 am

Does you have the schematic of that new version? I removed today a AY-3-8912 from a old non-working Spectrum +2A and I want to use it for something
Adding myself to this request! Do you have schematics for this board together with the schematics on how to join it with the FME7 cartridge? OR do you sell these already made? I would be really interrested (PCB only is OK)!

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tokumaru
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Post by tokumaru » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:45 am

That keyboard is beyond nasty!

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Xious
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Post by Xious » Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:50 pm

Scucci, I'd also like to see what you did with the revised version as well. If you have a schems set, PCB/Gerber file, or an extra board that you want to sell (as I like it aesthetically) let me know. No worries about thread revival: It's better this way.

(Hiya JP!)

On a side note: The original schematics on both of the Kevtris site are apparently missing as well. Does anybody have a backup of the ones that he did back in 2007? They aren't cached anywhere, and they're important to archive.

@ toku: I see dirtier KBs every day. ;) The culmination of ash, dist, and other cake-y debris makes it hard o keep up. White KBs also suck but until Matias makes a Mac symbol-layout in black— and I've asked them on several occasions to make the MatiasPro3.0 in MacBlack—I'm stuck with white that turns grey-brownish very quickly under pipe and cigar ash. Grey marking on white keys (for the symbols) are also harder to read than white markings on black keys, and black is the colour of the Empire. 8)

At least they took one of my suggestions to heart, and added the caps-light back onto the new units. God, that sucks, as the caps-lock key doesn't lock down down, but is a single press switch, so you can end up with writing entire paragraphs in caps states if our attention is elsewhere and you erringly hit the key instead of shift. My netbook is a greater pain though: it's caps key is a tiny sliver to the immediate left of the 'A' key, and boy does that make life fun.

It's a horrible thing, with flat (non-sculpted) keys with improper spacing (clearance) and arrangement (the top and home row keys are parallel); it's also non-back-lit and easily jammed with debris, but I'll take dark over bright blue any day. I liked the amber back-lit KBs with black keys and a dimmer switch but nobody makes them anymore, seemingly. If they keys were translucent, I could convert this but they aren't. I also used to have a IV-light sensitive KB somewhere, but it was also non-typist-friendly, like that weird yet cool laser projected KB module that I was given as a industrial sample.

That was very Trek, but not very usable. Imagine typing on the surface of a table (fingertips hitting tabletop). You needed a mushy surface to use it, and it wasn't good unless it was stable, so you can't use it on your lap, so typing while on he sofa is impossible.

Anyhow, I've become tangential on KBs now, and that wasn't my intention... (I guess I have "old-writer's-syndrome" or something along those lines.) If anybody still has the Gimmick! sound schematics, let me know. I do own 'Gimmick!' for the FC, if anybody's wondering, so it's not just to make a copy, I'm more interested in how this was done for other dev reasons of my own. 'Twould also be cool to make an extra sound mod board for the PP to properly support FDS or other expanded sound, but the PP design if far more complex (and undocumented) compared to an FME-7. I still have high-hopes for a truly universal sound chip for the NES/FC...fingers crossed that we get it to happen. :)

It would be nice if we had pinouts for the PP though, for this kind of project.It can't possibly hurt, and might even bolster sales if there were additional products to add to it.

I didn't realize that Loopy did a mapper for it though. I'll have to download his latest set and try them out. If only he and 'thefox' would work together on the next set, it would be a perfect world. Having both the 'loopy mappers' and the 'thefox savestate mappers' at once (as one unified set, not two sets, that is) would be most ideal. I'll probably compare what thefox has done at some point to the original Bunnyboy mappers and to loopy's mappers and see if I can find the additional saving code.

I'd like to add it to loopy's FDS mappers, if nothing else, for when I take my FC on the road. (I don't bring piles of games or disks with me anywhere anymore, just the PP, although I tend to use the actual disks at home or work; call it nostalgia. [/i]

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Post by Hilmarf » Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:44 pm

Whats the value on the capacitors and resistors on scuccis board? Also...what kind of diode is used? A 1n4148?

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Post by Hilmarf » Thu Feb 24, 2011 10:20 am

awwww c'mon... somebody has to know? :)

socram8888

Post by socram8888 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:39 am

Up

Anyone has the schematic? :(

socram8888

Post by socram8888 » Fri May 06, 2011 3:20 pm

Image

Thanks to Sydium for his ROM Laboratory website!

I did it so small that it still fits on his original Dodge Danpei 2 case (I've used that game because it was the cheapest Sunsoft FME-7 game on eBay - over 7€ shipping included :P)

I used a '139 from a non-working NES discrete clone; a '74 from another (failed) project; and a AY-3-8912 from a faulty Spectrum +2a

PS: Sorry for the crappy image, but it's late here and I took it with my phone instead of using my digital camera

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infiniteneslives
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Re:

Post by infiniteneslives » Mon Oct 01, 2012 12:42 am

MottZilla wrote:That looks awesome. Would be nice though if it were implemented in a full cartridge PCB with FME7 on a CPLD or something though opposed to using Batman RotJ boards but it's still neat to see Gimmick like that.
Ask and you shall receive more than 2 years later ;)

So It wasn't linked to in this thread, but thanks to the comment about ROM lab I peeked over there quick and found everything you'd ever want. I guess sdm = ROM lab so that makes sense everything there jived with this thread, I didn't know that until I noticed the similarities in pictures.

I did find something interesting though, thought this would be the place to bring it up and see if anyone knew. So I've got both a YM2149 and a AY8910. And the YM is significantly quieter than the 8910. I know one can always use a 10K pot for the audio/resistor mod, but I've got a 4.7K and I find it's perfect for a bone stock VRC-7 with Lagrange point. I don't want to dink around with a pot, I'd rather tune all my carts properly. So I used the schematic from the ROM lab with 1k's coming from each channel and then a 3k (I used 3.3k) going to ground. I found I could hardly hear the star and jumping sound effects on gimmick with the YM2149 so I pulled out the 3.3K going to ground. It did get better enough for me to hear all the sounds. So then I decided to try out the AY8910 and it was BLARING. I put the 3.3K resistor back in there and it was PERFECT, I hadn't even realized you could hear the star bouncing until then.

Any thoughts as to why such a difference between the two? I'm guessing that's just the way it is, but curious what other people have seen. I'm thinking about picking up a 8912 with it's smaller foot print, but now weary of how loud it is. I guess using something smaller than 1K resistors on each channel would probably be the best fix if you were stuck with the YM2149.
If you're gonna play the Game Boy, you gotta learn to play it right. -Kenny Rogers

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l_oliveira
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Re: Connect AY-3-8910 sound chip to FME-7 board

Post by l_oliveira » Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:23 pm

The AY-3-8912 should be electrically identical to the AY-3-8910. It's the same part with all the I/O pins chopped out.

There might be some differences on how the part is enabled as well since as the AY-3-8910 original purpose was being the sound chip on GI's videogame system (the INTL) and because of that it has a odd set of enable pins.

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jpx72
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Re: Connect AY-3-8910 sound chip to FME-7 board

Post by jpx72 » Tue Oct 09, 2012 2:09 am

Dic-sc7 made a new schematic for connecting the yamaha chip:
http://www.forum.emunes.pl/index.php/to ... l#msg47858

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l_oliveira
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Re: Connect AY-3-8910 sound chip to FME-7 board

Post by l_oliveira » Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:21 am

Just commenting, yet again:

There's no need to reset the AY chip.
It's so dumb (simple) it works without a initial clear pulse. The DATASHEET even mentions that RESET pin has a built in pullup resistor, meaning I could leave it disconnected if I wanted to...

I have both the AY and YM chips on my carts RESET pin tied to +5V and both work perfectly.

Holding RESET removes the clock so the chip does not play any sound while the system is reset...

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